“How-to” Suggestions for Creative Shutter Use
Defined / Suggested Exposures
· Panning - Shooting an image of a subject/focal point in motion, while following or pivoting with the direction of the movement of the subject through the camera. This effect requires precise timing between the actual shooting of the image and how you pace the action – bracketing or simply trying this effect more than one time is suggested for good results. If paced correctly the effect should give you a crisp image of your subject/focal point with a blurred background. It does not matter if the background moves/blurs as long as the focal area is completely crisp.
· Panning - Shooting an image of a subject/focal point in motion, while following or pivoting with the direction of the movement of the subject through the camera. This effect requires precise timing between the actual shooting of the image and how you pace the action – bracketing or simply trying this effect more than one time is suggested for good results. If paced correctly the effect should give you a crisp image of your subject/focal point with a blurred background. It does not matter if the background moves/blurs as long as the focal area is completely crisp.
Suggested shutter speeds: 1/30 or 1/15
· Zooming - The act of centering a stationary subject/focal point with the use of a tripod and as the shutter is pushed the photographer then zooms into or out of the image. When done correctly this effect should keep the center area in focus and the areas all around it will appear streaked/blurred.
Suggested shutter speeds: 1/15 or LOWER
· Blurred movement of a subject - With the use of a tri-pod, the subject/focal point will appear “ghosted” due to movement within the picture frame over the span of time that the shutter system remains open, while other areas of the image that have not moved remain “solid.” Be sure that the ghosted element of the focal point is noticeable; this may require bracketing or repeated attempts at the same motion to capture just the right effect.
Suggested shutter speeds to start with: 1/8 or LOWER
(depends on desired depth of field – F8 or higher)
Suggested shutter speeds to start with: 1/8 or LOWER
(depends on desired depth of field – F8 or higher)
Stopped movement of a subject - The subject/focal point must have been obviously in motion and stopped completely in mid-action with a clearly considered background. The trick with motion photography is the photographer’s ability to anticipate the scene and watch for mergers in the frame. It may be necessary to shoot multiples of the same action to ensure you have captured the image as you anticipated and in a compositionally interesting way.
Suggested shutter speeds to start with: 1/250 or HIGHER
(remember to consider the depth of field of the action as well)
(remember to consider the depth of field of the action as well)
· Fireworks - With the use of a tripod and shutter release cable, set your camera on the longest exposure time, if possible the “B” bulb setting, and focus on “infinity.” When taking images of fireworks it is important to plan for where the action will be and compose your image area using a larger depth of field (F16-F22) to help insure focus. Using the cable release, open the shutter and wait for the fireworks. You can keep the shutter open with multiple bursts of fireworks because the film records the scene only when there is light. Plan on bracketing your times with a watch to ensure a good exposure.
Suggested shutter speeds: B “bulb”
(depth of field should remain large – F11 to F22)
(depth of field should remain large – F11 to F22)
· Lightening - Take your images from a safe location because lightning is unpredictable. I would suggest under a shelter or in a doorway away from the elements. With the use of a tripod and shutter release cable, set your camera on the bulb exposure time, focus on “infinity,” and use a large depth of field (F16-F22). Keep the shutter open for multiple lightening strikes to ensure enough exposure on the film and remember to encompass a large area within the frame – use a wide angle lens.
Suggested shutter speeds: 1 second or MORE
(depth of field– F8 to F16 depending on the subject)
(depth of field– F8 to F16 depending on the subject)
· Multiple Exposures - Not all cameras are capable of this effect, taking two or more pictures over the same frame on the film, because cameras are meant to advance after the first image has been exposed. However, some newer cameras have a multiple expose setting that will prevent the film from advancing and allow you to take the next exposure on top of the last. When trying this effect it is best to do so in low light or darker situations with a tripod. Because you are exposing the same space of film multiple times you will need to underexpose each image to compensate for the overlapping using the suggestions below.
Suggested shutter speeds: set to an appropriate meter reading to your depth of field
& compensate for the underexposure with the APERTURE
& compensate for the underexposure with the APERTURE